A walking tour of the Milwaukee River’s bridge houses

Two weeks ago I posted about getting stopped at the Wisconsin Avenue drawbridge in downtown Milwaukee.  I was able to illustrate that blog post with two photographs of bridge houses that I found online, but those were basically the ONLY photos I could find online.

Milwaukee’s bridge houses are so full of character that I thought it was a shame not to include some of them.  I promised to follow up with photos in a later post, so this morning I took a walk along Milwaukee’s Riverwalk and snapped several pictures with my own camera.

Here’s a map of the Milwaukee River for reference.

The Milwaukee River is the vertical blue strip.  I started at the farthest south bridge in downtown proper, the Clybourn Street Bridge.  Clybourn is the first street north of the strip of freeway (I-94/I-794) running horizontally across the map.  See it?  Okay, so I’m going to walk north from Clybourn and document the bridge houses all the way up to my favorite pair of bridge houses on the Cherry Street Bridge.  The Cherry Street Bridge is the diagonal line across the Milwaukee River right where it starts to bend to the east, just under the words “To Bronzeville.”

Here is the Clybourn Street bridge house.  Note the bell up inside the alcove.  Most (and probably all) of the bridge houses have bells.

Clybourn Street bridge house

Below is the Michigan Street bridge houseMichigan Street bridge house

Next, the Wisconsin Avenue bridge house.  This is the bridge where I was stopped for river traffic to pass two weeks ago.

Wisconsin Avenue bridge house

The next bridge north of Wisconsin Avenue is the Wells Street bridge.  This picture is taken from Wisconsin Avenue looking north.  The Wells Street bridge house is in the center of the picture, on the lefthand side of the bridge.

Wells Street bridge house (from Wisconsin Avenue looking north)

The Wells Street bridge house is kind of a nothing, in my opinion.  Here’s a second view, below.  I don’t care for the Chippendale thing that frames the bell on top.

Well Street bridge house (2)

On closer examination, though, I guess the dentilwork on the cornice may be meant to echo the pediment of the old Milwaukee Electric Railway & Light Co. building, now the Milwaukee Rep’s Quadracci Powerhouse Theater.  Click on the first photo above (the one with the red telephone booth) to isolate the photo itself from the blog text, and then click on the photo again to enlarge it.  See the classical brick building across the river from the bridge house, to the right?  Its cornice and triangular pediment seem to be trimmed with a similar row of blocks.

The next bridge north of Wells Street is Kilbourn Avenue.  The Kilbourn Avenue bridge has four bridge houses, one at each corner.  You can see three in the first photo below, and the fourth in the second.  These bridge houses look like fortresses to me, which is a good thing in case the theatre district ever needs defending 🙂

Kilbourn Avenue bridge houses

Kilbourn Avenue bridge houses (2)

Next is the State Street bridge.  Like the Cherry Street bridge (still to come), the State Street bridge has two bridge houses kitty-corner from each other (Milwaukee-speak for catercorner, or catty-corner, i.e., across from each other diagonally).

State Street bridge house

State Street bridge house (2)

The next bridge north is Juneau Avenue, which just recently reopened to traffic after being updated.  Its bridge house is below.

Juneau Avenue bridge house

If the quality of the Juneau Avenue photo seems different from the other photos in this post, that’s because I took that picture today with my iPod Touch.  In yesterday’s post—in other words, the whole rest of this post except these two paragraphs—I wrote: “I skipped McKinley, which is a new bridge built since the old freeway spur was torn down.  I don’t think it has a bridge house (but I’ll double check next time I cross it).”

Guess what?  McKinley Avenue does have a bridge house.  It’s the one I identified in yesterday’s post as the Juneau Avenue bridge house.  I walked right past the Juneau Avenue bridge house yesterday, and even smiled a hello to the city workers who were cleaning/painting it, but didn’t recognize that I was looking STRAIGHT AT the Juneau Avenue bridge house because of the maintenance being done.  I saw the workers and didn’t notice the building!  Anyway, this afternoon when I drove across the McKinley Avenue bridge looking to see if it had a bridge house, I realized immediately what I’d done.

So here is the McKinley Avenue bridge house, now correctly identified 🙂

Juneau Avenue bridge house

Which brings us, at last, to Cherry Street and my favorite pair of bridge houses.  According to the dedication plaque, the Cherry Street bridge houses date from 1940, but don’t they look very Art Deco?

Cherry Street bridge house

Cherry Street bridge dedication

The Cherry Street bridge house has both horns and a bell.

Cherry Street bridge house horns and bell

I love this whimsical “frame” for the discharge pipes across the way.

Whimsical view from the Cherry Street bridge

This part of the old bascule bridges freaks me out a little: the “pavement” is a see-through metal grid.  Can you make out the Milwaukee River down below the street?

Looking down to the river through the Cherry Street bridge

And finally, one last look at the Cherry Street bridge house from the other side of the river, looking back toward downtown, although at a slightly westward angle (see the map above).

Cherry Street bridge house from across the river

I guess both the Cherry Street bridge and its bridge house are showing their age and looking a little tired.  But they are still beautiful to me!

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Watching the “Up” Series (#2, 7 Plus Seven)

This weekend I watched the second film in the “Up” series, 7 Plus Seven.  Last week I watched (and wrote this blog post about) the first film, Seven Up.  Six more films to go on my way to 56 Up, the most recent film in the series, released less than two weeks ago on DVD in the U.S.

Actually, even though the DVD case lists the first film as Seven Up, I think the first film’s title originally ended with an exclamation mark: Seven Up!  I’m also guessing that title came from a game we used to play in elementary school called “Seven Up!”  I remember absolutely nothing about that game except that I think it involved us putting our heads down on our desks while (seven?) kids walked around and each tapped someone on the shoulder or head.  The object was for us to guess who tapped us.  At some point (when the tapping had been completed?) someone said “seven up!” loudly, which I think was the signal to lift our heads up and begin the guessing process.  I also vaguely recall that you could cheat by looking at people’s shoes 🙂  Hmmm, now I wonder if that was the point of this game: to help the teacher identify “cheaters.”

Anyway, while the first film in the “Up” series introduces us to several seven-year-old children, the second film, 7 Plus Seven, reconnects us with those same children at age 14.  In a collection of interviews with the narrator/director, Michael Apted, the now-teenagers talk about school, their futures, and their feelings about money, social issues, etc.  It’s interesting to see how the children have grown and changed.  And it’s also interesting to get a feel for what was happening in England politically and socially at the time 7 Plus Seven was filmed.

There’s a fair amount of talk about strikes, for example.  Should people be allowed to strike, what should be done about strikes, etc.  I did a little background reading and found that toward the end of the 1960s and on through the 1970s, Britain’s economy was in bad shape.  The Labour Party had control of Parliament under Harold Wilson 1964–1970, a period perfectly bookended by the first and second “Up” films, coincidentally.  In 1967 the British government was forced to devalue the pound.  Trade unions began to strike.  Eventually a strike by coal miners caused the government to institute a “three-day week” (January–March 1974), which limited commercial users of electricity to three days of consumption per week.  According to Wikipedia, by 1975 a million people were unemployed, and by 1978 that number had risen to 1.5 million.

The three affluent Kensington schoolboys are now students at the very same prep schools they had predicted attending when they were seven years old.  In their interview (all three of them conducted together, just as when they were seven), the 14-year-old boys talk about the strikes in political/philosophical terms, at a detached remove almost as if they were analyzing the subject in a classroom discussion.

John, who seems quite well informed and plans a career in politics (he describes himself as “ambitious” for “power” in response to Apted’s questioning), declares that strikes should be illegal.  Charles then remarks that if that were the case, workers would be deprived of their democratic right to strike.  John comes back with an analogy that seems unassailable on its surface, saying that when you put people in prison you’re also depriving them of their rights, his point being that it is sometimes legitimate for people to be deprived of their rights in a democracy.  Charles doesn’t respond.

As a teacher, I didn’t like what I saw happening in this exchange.  Charles voiced a thoughtful opinion—different and somehow more complex than anything any of the film’s other teens had put forth on the topic.  No one else connects the strikes with “democracy” and “rights.”  The other 14-year-olds all talk about the strikes in terms of “greed” and “money,” “rich” and “poor.”  What I didn’t like seeing as a teacher was that, as Charles appeared to be carefully walking through the articulation of his rather insightful idea, suddenly what had appeared to be a low-stakes forum for expressing opinions instead turned out to be a debate that he was not expecting.  Although John’s manner is polite, his tone is condescending, and everything about his statement seems aimed at shutting Charles down.  I admired John’s quick, resourceful rebuttal, but the teacher in me was itching to help Charles out all the same by challenging John to support his assertion that workers on strike were the same as convicted criminals.  Just so Charles could have a little breathing space to collect his thoughts and prepare a comeback 🙂

Meanwhile, the three girls from the East End also touch on strikes in their interviews.  When the subject arises, Lynn volunteers tersely that her mom went out on strike.  She doesn’t elaborate, and the other girls don’t pursue the topic.  Instead they voice supportive murmurs as a way to acknowledge and confirm their acceptance of what Lynn has said.

Lynn was the girl who at age seven declared that she wanted to work at Woolworth’s when she grew up.  Now, at age 14, she goes to a grammar school, and she seems somewhat defensive to me throughout the 7 Plus Seven interview.  Seated between Jackie and Sue, she keeps legs crossed, her hands wrapped around her knees, and her eyes cast downward most of the time.  Her expression is wary, as though she feels she’s being judged and anticipates an attack.  From whom, I had to wonder?  Jackie and Sue, her former schoolmates, seem to be going out of their way not to offend.

It was all this defensive body language (and conciliatory body language from Jackie and Sue in response) that led me to conclude that Lynn felt self-conscious about the inferiority of her “grammar school” compared with the “comprehensive school” her friends chose to attend.

I was wrong.  I totally do not understand the British education system.  “Public” schools are actually private, for example—very expensive, very exclusive.  To me “grammar” school sounds like it would be equivalent to what we call “elementary” or “grade” school in the U.S.  In fact, I’m sure I’ve heard people in this country refer to schools with kindergarten through fifth or sixth grades as “grammar” schools.  “Comprehensive” school means nothing to me.  I’ve also heard the term “forms” in connection with British education.  I know that forms have something to do with what grade a student is in, but they also seem to be connected with whether or not the student will be taking the “A-level” exam.  I don’t know what that is, either, except it has something to do with students going on to college (or going on to “university,” as they say in England).  Perhaps something akin to the ACT and SAT tests in the United States?

So, without knowing what “grammar” school was, I thought Lynn’s grammar school must be some sort of vocational training.  That’s what it looks like to me.  Footage of Lynn in school shows her in a large, industrial-kitchen sort of space.  She and her classmates are watching their teacher, who stands at a stove stirring a pot and emphasizing that a wooden spoon should be used to minimize noise.  As Jackie and Sue talk in the interview about how nice the new comprehensive school is and how girls do metal and wood work and boys do “cook work” classes, Lynn says (somewhat defensively, I thought again), that she doubts many girls at the grammar school would be interested in a woodworking class.  Lynn’s whole manner suggests sour grapes to me, like she believes the comprehensive school to be better than her grammar school and is trying to diminish its attractiveness by dismissing the desirability of woodworking.

But I just looked up grammar and comprehensive schools, and apparently England’s grammar schools are more selective and place greater emphasis on academics than the comprehensive schools.  So why do we see Lynn watching a cooking demonstration at her school?  I’m still confused.

Interestingly, also, despite the allusion to equal opportunity for girls hinted at in the reference to woodworking classes at school, the interviewer (Apted) says to the three girls that “there is a danger” they’ll get married, have children, “and then be stuck at home.”  The implication being that their futures will involve either career or children . . . but not both.  And apparently that marriage and children constitute a prison.  The boys are not asked to consider their futures in such either/or terms.

Over to Neil and Peter, the two boys from Liverpool.  Peter doesn’t make a strong impression on me at age 14.  He seems happy, secure, ordinary.  Although he beats Neil at chess, he exults only a teeny bit (“Watch this,” he says, moving his chess piece into position.  “Checkmate!”) and refrains from gloating.  Which is nice, because Neil looks crestfallen and a bit stunned by his sudden loss.

Neil was the one I remembered from 49 Up as having struggled with mental illness and homelessness as an adult.  As a seven-year-old he was cheerful, bright-eyed, and irrepressible.  Now as a 14-year-old Neil seems more reserved, and maybe a little weary and beaten down.  There is increased competition at school now that he is older, and he has to study all the time to keep up with the leaders.  “I never have the time to relax at all,” he says.  Ominous foreshadowing?

Tony, the aspiring jockey from London’s East End, is already working with horses at Epsom.  What if being a jockey doesn’t work out, the interviewer wants to know.  His dad will be disappointed, says Tony.  If he can’t be a jockey, he says, he’d like to be a taxi driver.  (Which, in fact, was the very thing he turned out to do for a living in 49 Up.)

Bruce was the son of a missionary [UPDATE: I just read an article saying that his father was a soldier; the rest of this paragraph may help explain how I formed the impression that he was a missionary] stationed in Rhodesia.  In Seven Up Bruce was living in a rather scary boarding school, with a little martinet of an older student leading calisthenics-slash-military drills and kicking boys who got out of line (literally “out of line,” because the boys were supposed to be standing in a line, so maybe that’s where we get the expression :)).  Bruce retains his gentle, dreamy manner in 7 Plus Seven.  There’s an expression I’ve picked up from watching British television imports (BBC, ITV shows, etc.) to describe a person who emanates a certain quality.  Often characters will say of someone that he is “incandescent” with rage, intelligence, whatever.  Well, Bruce is incandescent with goodness.  So kind, so sweet, so accepting of everyone.  He never has an unpleasant word to say about anything, including the boarding school he lived in during Seven Up.  Anything that isn’t positive, he at least phrases in the most diplomatic manner possible.

Suzy, who at age seven had never met a person of color and didn’t think she’d ever care to, thank you very much, now lives on her father’s 4,000 acre estate in Scotland.  Her interview takes place outdoors, on a lawn bordered with flowers, and I have to admit I lost track of most of her responses because I was so preoccupied with the life-and-death drama unfolding behind her as she talked.  First a rabbit hops out from a flower bed behind her.  It’s in the background, just a blurry object moving about beyond Suzy’s head.  Then her dog, Max, rushes into the picture to pounce on it, and the camera racks focus to frame Max as he brings the rabbit’s dead body over close to where Suzy sits.  Suzy informs Max he is disgusting, but she remains unruffled by what has just happened, telling the interviewer that the rabbit is not as bad as when her dog catches birds and she can’t get to them to kill them (to end their suffering).  She seems to have a toughness about death that goes with rural life, saying that most people “aren’t up to” the job of killing wounded animals.

The two boys who lived in the charity-run children’s home in Seven Up no longer do.

Paul (the boy who plaintively asked “What does university mean?” in Seven Up) is now living in Australia.  He doesn’t get as much screen time as most of the other kids in 7 Plus Seven.  We see him riding his bike home from school to his nice house in a suburban-looking neighborhood.  Then we see him riding a pony in a field.  Through a voiceover, he talks about how he wanted to be a physical education teacher until he found out you had to go to college to do that.  Now he doesn’t know what he wants to do.  Seems like a normal, active teenager to me.

Symon, the only non-white child in the series, is interviewed at length in what appears to be his kitchen.  He is living with his mom now, and I can’t decide whether he is on the verge of tears during his interview or not.  He is very thoughtful, soft-spoken, articulate.  Several times he talks about things that sound as if they might trouble him, and he looks like he’s going to cry, but then he smiles and I second-guess my impressions.  Symon says he’s happy to be with his mom, but in some ways he was happier at the children’s home, where everyone was his friend and he had everything he needed.

In response to the interviewer’s apparent question about travel, Symon recounts several local places he was taken on outings when he lived at the children’s home.  Other 7 Plus Seven participants answered the same question with one-word identifications of countries and tourist locales (Spain, France, Majorca, Casablanca).  Not only was I struck by the contrast between these exotic destinations and Symon’s field-trip type outings, but I also found it interesting that Symon would remember and list all the places he visited by their specific names.

At another point, the interviewer has apparently asked everyone whether they get an allowance, how much, and what they spend it on.  Symon says his mom gives him a pound a week but has usually taken 10 bob back by the middle of the week.  “I save the other 10 bob as much as possible,” he says.

I think that’s everyone but Nicholas, the boy from a small Yorkshire village.  Nick has won a scholarship to a Yorkshire boarding school, and he says he’s happy with the arrangement.  He wouldn’t want to be at school all the time, nor would he want to be on the farm all the time.  At one point the interviewer asks Nick if he wants to take up farming.  “No,” says Nick flatly.  “I’m not interested in it.  I mean . . . I’m not.  And I said I was interested in physics and chemistry, well I’m not going to do that here.”

Asked if his father wanted to do farming, Nick says, “I don’t think he really wanted to but he got stuck with it.”  He suspects that his grandfather wanted his father to be a farmer, but Nick doesn’t think his own father wants that for him.  If his youngest brother, “the deaf one,” as Nick refers to him, can’t do anything else, maybe he could run a farm.

Nick is interviewed outside, sitting on the grass at his family’s farm.  He spends most of his interview with his crossed arms resting on his knees, which he has drawn up against his chest.  His head is buried within the circle of his arms, behind his knees.  Seldom does he raise his head to make even minimal eye contact with the interviewer.  He answers the interviewer’s questions but seems (to me) miserable, self-conscious, defensive, and grudging in his replies.

Painful, painful to watch.  I feel like a voyeur prying into these young people’s lives.  And writing about my impressions of their interviews here in my blog is a completely different experience than I thought it would be.  The “Up” children are real people, not movie characters.  Talking about someone who actually lives and breathes in the world is not the same as analyzing a purely fictitious character.

Interestingly, I didn’t feel so queasy when I watched 49 Up several years ago.  Maybe it’s because in 49 Up, everyone was an adult.  Even watching Seven Up last week I didn’t feel so uneasy.  At age seven, all the children seemed open and unaware of themselves, and it didn’t occur to me that we shouldn’t be asking them such personal questions.  In fact, last week, questions like “Do you have a girlfriend?” didn’t seem very personal at all.  Now, though, in 7 Plus Seven, the participants are all quite self-aware, very conscious of themselves and of how others may view them.

And even at 14, they are still children.  I am hyper-conscious of how young they are.  Are these documentary films exploiting them?  And if so, does my own decision to view and comment on the films make me complicit?

Despite my discomfort, I do intend to keep on with my plan to view all of the “Up” series films this summer, one every weekend for the next several weeks.  I’ll write about my reactions as planned, too.  But I have no idea what to expect from the experience.

I was originally inspired to watch the entire series in order by a quote I ran across some time ago, taken from a 1998 review of the “Up” documentary films written by the late Roger Ebert:

They . . . strike me as an inspired, even noble, use of the film medium.  No other art form can capture so well the look in an eye, the feeling in an expression, the thoughts that go unspoken between the words.  To look at these films, as I have every seven years, is to meditate on the astonishing fact that man is the only animal that knows it lives in time.

I guess what I expected from watching the “Up” films was that I’d gain insights into how people age and discover who they are growing up.  Sort of an academic exercise in the field of psychology or sociology, a longitudinal study following a group of subjects over a period of decades.  But now that I’m into the “project,” I don’t feel like a researcher after all.

I feel . . . more like a protective parent.

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Watching the “Up” Series (#1, Seven Up)

Several years ago, in one of those serendipitous moments that can occur only in the physical world (i.e., not online),  I stumbled across a film in the documentary section of a Blockbuster video store, 49 Up.  I realized at once that this movie must be part of the “Seven Up” documentary series I’d vaguely heard of before.

In 1964, twenty seven-year-old children in England were profiled/interviewed in a  television series called “World in Action” for Britain’s Granada Television.  Taking its cue from the Jesuit saying, “Give me a child until he is seven and I will give you the man,” the show selected its interview subjects from a variety of socioeconomic circumstances.

“Why do we bring these children together?” asks the narrator rhetorically.  “Because we want to get a glimpse of England in the year 2000.  The shop steward and the executive of the year 2000 are now seven years old.”

The most recent film in the series, 56 Up, was broadcast on British television a year ago.  I’ve been waiting impatiently since then to view it in the U.S., and when it was finally released on DVD here last week, I decided to purchase the boxed set of all eight movies.  Currently priced at $37.99 on Amazon, the entire set together is an excellent deal.

So this past weekend I watched the first film in the series, 1964’s Seven Up.  I wasn’t viewing it through completely new eyes, though, because remember I’d already watched the seventh film, 49 Up, a few years ago after finding it at Blockbuster.  Even though I don’t recall many details from 49 Up, my perceptions of the original film this weekend were definitely informed by my previous viewing.

For example, one of the children, Nicholas Hitchon, lived on a farm in rural Yorkshire in 1964.  By 49 Up he was a professor at the University of Wisconsin, which is in Madison about a 90-minute drive away from my home in Milwaukee.  I remember feeling a little sad for Nick in 49 Up and identifying a bit with some of the choices he had made in life.  In his Madison home, Nick had created a “Yorkshire room” filled with things to remind him of the beautiful countryside of his childhood . . . which he’d had to leave behind in order to become a scientist (a desire that is evident even in the very first film, I see now).

All of us have faced difficult choices like this, but the stark contrast between the life one actually lives and other possible lives one could have chosen instead is something I wasn’t fully conscious of until watching the 49 Up interview with Nick.  To me it seemed very tragic that Nick is a Yorkshire boy who cannot live in Yorkshire.  Being true to his intellectual self required giving up an equally true part of himself.

In Seven Up young Nick seems very self-possessed.  I got a particular kick out of one of his responses.  When the interviewer asks him (as he did all the children) if he has a girlfriend, Nick seems a little nonplussed at first but quickly recovers, retorting something like, “I don’t answer that sort of question.”

Tony Walker, a London taxi driver in 49 Up, was a scrappy little kid from London’s East End in Seven Up.  I recall liking Tony a lot in 49 Up.  He and his wife, also a taxi driver, seemed very practical and down to earth.  They had a second home in Spain, were very family oriented, and in some ways struck me as being happiest of anyone in the series with their lot in life.  By “happiest” I mean that they seemed (to me, at least, viewing everyone’s lives at great distance of both time and space) not merely content with their lives but actually very engaged in living their lives with deliberate joy.

The other person I remembered well from 49 Up is Neil Hughes.  All of the “Up” films review each person’s life via clips from the previous films in order to bring the audience up to date and ensure that each film becomes a standalone experience for newcomers.  What I recalled from 49 Up was that Neil had had a very rough go of things in life.  At one point he was homeless, at another living in public housing in an absolutely gorgeous part of Scotland.

So watching Seven Up this past weekend, it was almost painful to see what a bright, articulate little boy Neil had been in the original movie.  “Chipper” is the best word I can think of to describe him.  So cheerful, so quick-witted, so full of life!  I care about Neil, I realize, and am itching to watch 56 Up to see how he is doing today.  But I’ll have to arrive at age 56 by moving through his life at seven-year intervals, because my plan is to watch all eight films in sequence.

I don’t know yet what insights I’ll take away from the series overall, but I anticipate that following several people through their lives, and hearing their own self-reflections every seven years, will prove to be enlightening.  I’m astounded and grateful that the subjects of the Up series have consented to this fairly extreme invasion of their privacy in order to maintain the integrity of the films’ collective purpose.

Just one other observation to share from the original Seven Up film right now.  At one point the interviewer apparently asked the children about their future educational plans.  The trio of boys from a London-area prep school provide detailed responses about the paths they expect their lives will take, identifying by name not only their intended future public schools but also their intended universities (Oxford and Cambridge) and even a specific college within those universities (Trinity).

From these three privileged seven-year-olds, we then cut directly to Paul, one of the two boys living in a charity-run children’s home.  His brow furrows in confusion at the interviewer’s question.

“What does ‘university’ mean?” he asks.

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A pause for river traffic at the Wisconsin Avenue drawbridge

One of the joys of living in a city with a navigable river is encountering its drawbridges.  Around noon yesterday I happened to be two cars back when the Wisconsin Avenue bridge was raised to accommodate one of the larger tour boats.

Wisconsin Avenue bridge

The white, pillared building across the river is the old Gimbels Department Store, where in April of 1945 a duck named “Gertie” laid her eggs and raised her brood atop some of the pilings down along the river.  This was big news at the time, a welcome diversion from the numbing horror of World War II.  The local paper carried daily updates on the unfolding duckling saga for over five weeks.  People lined the bridge along Wisconsin Avenue to catch a glimpse.

Following flooding and fire, Gertie and her ducklings were rescued and placed in one of Gimbels’ large streetside display windows.  According to Wikipedia, over 2 million people paused outside that store window to monitor their progress.  (Milwaukeeans really love their animals.  When I first moved to town, the top newspaper headline for days was about the death of Samson, a much-beloved zoo gorilla.  His taxidermied body resides at the Milwaukee Public Museum, and a bronze-sculpted bust of  his likeness graces the ape house at the Milwaukee County Zoo.)

Eventually the story of Gertie and her brood was immortalized in print, published first by the Milwaukee Journal and later by Rinehart in New York.

About fifty years later, a statue followed.

Gertie the Duck by sculpter Gendolyn Gillen (via Wikipedia)

The Milwaukee River runs south through the heart of Milwaukee’s downtown.  It flows into the inner harbor just below the Third Ward, an old warehouse district now reborn as a hipster center of New Urbanism.  From there boats can either move all the way out to Lake Michigan or stay inside the breakwaters of the outer harbor.  (Milwaukee grew up around the natural inner harbor formed by the confluence of three rivers: the Milwaukee River, the Menomonee River, and the Kinnickinnic River.  The artificial outer harbor was built in the early twentieth century with additional channel dredging and a series of breakwaters.)

I’ve had to pause for drawbridge openings on downtown streets pretty often during the thirty-odd years I’ve lived in Milwaukee.  For several years now the city has been replacing the old bridges that split in the center with newer vertical-lift bridges that rise straight up in one piece, like the one shown in the photo above on Wisconsin Avenue.

Too bad, in a way.  I thought the old bascule bridges were picturesque.  And, really, what is a drawbridge if it doesn’t swing open that way.  The Blues Brothers made the East 95th Street Bridge in Chicago famous when they did an Evel Knievel-style jump from one ramp of that drawbridge to the other across the open gap.  Roger Moore’s final James Bond movie, A View to a Kill, used a similar stunt in a chase scene.  All the romance is gone now😂

Milwaukee’s bridge houses, at least, are still around.  Every drawbridge once needed an operator, and every operator needed a place to work from.  Are operators still required every time a bridge opens?  I don’t know, but I’ve never personally seen anyone inside them.  Although some (if not all) of the bridge houses have been “updated” or replaced for the modern era, every drawbridge does still need a bridge house to hold the “works.”  And the Milwaukee River has some very cool, unique-looking bridge houses downtown.

Wisconsin Avenue bridge house, looking north (via Wikipedia)

Pleasant Street bridge house, before bridge reconstruction (via City of Milwaukee)

Huh.  I’ve been trying to find online images of Milwaukee River bridge houses I could share, but there really aren’t any.  So that can be a project for me this summer, to photograph some of my favorite bridge houses and post again later.  (UPDATE: I did do this in a post about two weeks later.  Here is the link to “A walking tour of the Milwaukee River’s bridge houses.”)

Meanwhile, here is the second photo I took from my car yesterday.  It may be hard for you to make it out amid all the other busy details (railings, buildings), but you can see the boat (it’s pretty long, as well as tall) heading south on the river.

Tour boat heading toward Lake Michigan

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Watch the Book Trailer for ALL GOD’S CHILDREN

I have to share this book trailer for my friend Anna Schmidt’s next novel, due out in September, I believe. Her publisher has created an promotional video that I think really lives up to the content of Anna’s novel. If you enjoy reading Christian/inspirational, romantic, or historical fiction (in this case WWII), Anna’s book may be right up your alley.

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Woody Allen on filmmaking as therapy

Great article about Woody Allen in yesterday’s Wall Street Journal Magazine.  In a post I wrote on “Creativity and the importance of routine” last year, I mentioned Allen as an example of someone who shows up every day and does the work.  As a result of his very disciplined routine, Allen has managed to put out 48 films over the span of his entire career and a new film every single year for the last thirty years.

In yesterday’s interview, Allen offers this interesting insight on his work ethic and prolific creative output:

You know in a mental institution they sometimes give a person some clay or some basket weaving?  It’s the therapy of moviemaking that has been good in my life.  If you don’t work, it’s unhealthy—for me, particularly unhealthy.  I could sit here suffering from morbid introspection, ruing my mortality, being anxious.  But it’s very therapeutic to get up and think, Can I get this actor; does my third act work?  All these solvable problems that are delightful puzzles, as opposed to the great puzzles of life that are unsolvable, or that have very bad solutions.  So I get pleasure from doing this.  It’s my version of basket weaving.

You can read the entire article here.

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Pixar’s “The Blue Umbrella” is cinematic poetry. “Monsters University” is fun, too.

This past weekend my younger daughter and I continued our longstanding tradition of catching Pixar’s new release on its opening weekend.

Monsters University was a lot of fun.  Not completely on a par with the studio’s finest hits, but really nothing wrong with it, either.  Very enjoyable, with many nods to the original film, Monsters, Inc.,  as well as to university culture and Greek life.

I love Mike Wazowski, the one-eyed, green ball of a monster voiced by Billy Crystal.  He is such an enthusiastic, can-do little guy.  And resilient—oh, my goodness, is he resilient!  (SPOILER ALERT: the rest of this paragraph alludes to the movie’s conclusion.)  When Mike is kicked out of the “scarer” program, it looks like the end of his lifelong dream of working on the “scare” floor.  But there’s more than one way to skin a cat, and the mailroom is hiring at the Monsters, Inc., utility company.  It’s truly heartwarming and inspirational to track Sully and Mike’s joint career trajectory via the photos and awards taped to the inside of Mike’s locker at the movie’s end.

Speaking of the end, though, don’t bother sticking around for the post-credit epilogue this time.  My daughter and I were the only people left in the theater (except for uniformed teenagers with mops and garbage bags) by the time all nine billion Pixar/Disney employees’ names had finished rolling.  What a letdown:  The snail from the first day of school earlier in the film finally made it to class, only to be told by the janitor mopping the floor that the year had ended.  Come to think of it, watching that postscript surrounded by people waiting to clean up made me feel a bit like a tardy snail myself.

For me, the best part of our trip to the movies last weekend was unquestionably The Blue Umbrella.

Pixar always runs a new animated short immediately ahead of its feature.  The Blue Umbrella is the story of . . . a blue umbrella (guess you saw that one coming) . . . that falls for a red umbrella amidst a sea of black umbrellas crowded together under a downpour on a nighttime city street.  When the surging crowds and gusts of wind threaten to separate the two shy characters, friendly inanimate objects exert their own powers to help throw them together once more.

The Blue Umbrella‘s story reminds me of one of the best short films ever, The Red Balloon (1956).  

That beautiful movie, which won an Academy Award for its screenplay, is sweet and naïve, yet full of truth and insight about what is ugly and what is good in life.  And it’s so uplifiting (literally :)) at the end, when all the balloons in Paris join together to right the wrong that has been done.

Like The Red Balloon, The Blue Umbrella contains no dialogue.  Well, The Red Balloon  contains one word, as I recall.  The Blue Umbrella has no words, just background sounds of rain, city noises like traffic signals and car horns, and an absolutely perfect musical score featuring the singing voice of Sarah Jaffee.  Here is a clip via The Wall Street Journal (sadly, minus the singing voice of Sarah Jaffee).

 

In addition to the lovely story, what I find most impressive about The Blue Umbrella is its animation.  Like other Pixar films, this short film is computer-animated.  Again:  The entire film is computer-animated, ALL of it!!!!  Take a look at the movie still below to see why that statement requires so many exclamation points.

The city scenes are rendered so incredibly realistically that my daughter was convinced that much of the film’s background footage (rain-slick pavement, etc.) was actually live-action, with the two animated umbrellas and the animated “faces” on traffic signals and buildings merely superimposed over it.

With The Blue Umbrella, Pixar takes animation into a new realm.  It is exciting (although a little scary, maybe?) to see the line between real and not-real images so unequivocally erased.

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Jessica’s Wednesday Poem Club: What is the Meaning of a Jar Placed in the Woods, If No One Is There to See It?

For today’s post, especially if you enjoy poetry, head over to the “Wednesday Poem Club” hosted by my friend and fellow-blogger, Jessica Slavin. I was planning just to leave a quick comment on the Wallace Stevens poem “Anecdote of the Jar,” but then wrote so much that I decided it should count as a post on my blog, too!

(On August 6, 2021: Several people have visited this page in the last few days, and I don’t think whatever link I had originally used is live anymore. So I just now found Jessica’s blog post again online. Here’s a link to its new location: https://sett.com/likeanapple/uid/118178)

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Waiting for Sherlock

I love the BBC One Sherlock Holmes series, starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Sherlock and Martin Freeman as Dr. John Watson.  Have you seen it?  Arthur Conan Doyle’s famous sleuth now carries a smartphone, and his good friend Dr. Watson publishes accounts of Sherlock’s exploits on a blog.

The series’ opening-credits sequence is especially well done.  The use of tilt-shift photography makes London appear in miniature, as if it’s Sherlock’s game board.  Nice touch.

And thank goodness for subtitles!  With the first two seasons available on DVD, I can finally understand what the super-fast-talking, English-accented main characters are saying and thus actually have a clue what’s going on.

Each season has three episodes, meaning there are six of these hip, smartly-written, and brilliantly acted Sherlock stories so far.  Although thoroughly updated for the 21st century, all have titles and plots that are clever twists on actual Conan Doyle tales.

For example, the series’ first episode, “A Study in Pink,” not only cleverly spins out the title of the first Sherlock tale, “A Study in Scarlet,” but it also introduces Holmes and Watson in the same manner as Conan Doyle’s original.  And it features the mysterious word “RACHE” written by the dying murder victim, except now it’s a password as well as a person’s name.  We even have an incompetent member of the police force postulating that it’s the German word for “revenge.”

While we’re on the subject of the police force, I have to mention that I love how this series makes Lestrade a competent, likable guy, yet retains Conan Doyle’s apparent low regard for the police by introducing a few unsympathetic lower-level officers to despise and make idiots of.

There are many other fun references planted for Holmes fans to discover.  Like, for instance, the five Greenwich pips that pay homage to “The Five Orange Pips” in the third episode of Season One, “The Great Game.”  And although today’s Sherlock does not smoke a pipe, he is a “recovering” cigarette addict who savors secondhand smoke and wears a nicotine patch on his arm (or occasionally multiples, for mentally wrestling with cases that pose a “three-patch problem”).

Every time I re-watch one of these episodes, I find something new to enjoy.  But I want MORE!  I want new episodes.

And it looks like I’ll have to keep waiting for them . . . because Season Three (or “Series 3,” as they seem to call it in England) will probably not air until next January.  The show’s stars have unfortunately become so successful (well, fortunately for them :)) that their availability for the three-episode Sherlock shoot has to be worked around their other commitments.

Major bummer.

Meanwhile, because I finally figured out how to embed YouTube clips in my blog, I thought I’d share this funny clip of a Benedict Cumberbatch/Chris Pine interview from BBC One’s “The Graham Norton Show,” a program billed this way on the BBC One website: “Graham Norton presents a show focusing on the people, trends, stories and aspects of celebrity culture that interest him most, featuring trademark Norton comedy monologues and celebrity chat.”

Here watch Benedict Cumberbatch and then Chris Pine run up into the audience to embrace the Cumberb*tches and Pine Nuts who’ve traveled great distances to see them.  Graham Norton is hilarious, and both actors seem awfully good sports.

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Great Books: The Devil in the White City

Last night was my Great Books Dinner and Discussion event at Milwaukee School of Engineering.  I usually facilitate a book discussion every June, and lately I’ve added the November discussion to my rotation, as well.  This month’s selection was The Devil in the White City, by Erik Larson.

Although thunder and lightening sent sheets of wind-driven rain onto the street outside the comfortable rooms of MSOE’s Alumni Partnership Center, we hardly gave the weather any notice at all inside the sturdy stone walls.  Our Great Books events are held in the former headquarters of the Blatz Brewing Co. business offices, featuring hardwood floors, high oak-beamed ceilings, hand-carved fireplaces, marble hearths, and a two-story skylight.  A walk-in vault/safe serves as the coat closet, which is fun.  A steep ladder/staircase leads to a second vault above it.

MSOE has been running the Great Books series since 1996, the same year Oprah started her book club, in fact.  It is an enjoyable evening out, a lot like book club except no one has to clean their house and you actually do talk about the book 🙂  The registration fee of $50 covers hors d’oeuvres, wine or soda (“pop” where I’m from; “soda” in the Milwaukee vernacular), dinner, dessert, coffee—and, of course, conversation about the selected book.

People come with friends, or they come alone and make new friends over dinner.  Some people have developed friendships outside of the monthly event after attending over time and seeing each other there.  People also attend with their regular book clubs, sometimes adding our evening to their normal meeting schedule if the book we’re discussing looks good to them.  And we are getting more men at the events, whether alone or as part of a couple, which is nice to see.

I really do enjoy these evenings, even though as the discussion leader I’m technically working.

Last night in addition to our usual conversation about the book, I shared some interesting videos I’d found on YouTube about the “White City.”  I really hadn’t known much of anything regarding the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition before reading Erik Larson’s book, so I supplemented what I’d learned from Larson with some background research.  If you haven’t yet read The Devil in the White City, you should. It’s fascinating.  And your jaw will drop in delight . . . repeatedly . . . as Larson slips yet another famous name, amazing tidbit of information, or astonishing twist of fate into his narrative.  Really a fun book—dense but readable.  And one that rewards repeated reading.

My only complaint is that Larson’s book contains disappointingly few photographs of the fair.  Each new section (but not every chapter) contains a small photograph that provides a tantalizing glimpse of how magical the fairgrounds were.  It’s not enough, though.  I found several photos online, and you really do need to see all the pictures for yourself to appreciate how awesome (in the original sense of the word) the “White City” truly was.  The enormous scale of the architecture and landscaped grounds absolutely floors me.  (Now that I think of it, Larson’s book is so packed with detail already that he couldn’t possibly have included all the photographs I wanted him to 🙂 )

More than 27 million people attended the fair during its six-month run.  Yet because most photos of the fairgrounds were taken prior to the official opening, they contain almost no people, just a few random men in suits standing around the massive structures and landscapes.

Surprisingly few pictures show the “White City” actually crowded with people—as it must have been to have racked up those 27 million visitors.  On its single busiest day, in fact,  more than 700,000 people crowded into the fairgrounds.

One primary preoccupation of the fair’s planners was that their event should have an attraction that could “out-Eiffel” Eiffel, a reference to the Eiffel Tower (and engineer Gustave Eiffel, its designer), that had been built as the entrance arch for the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris.

After rejecting several lame copycat towers, fair planners finally accepted a proposal from a Pittsburgh bridge builder, an engineer named George Washington Gale Ferris, Jr., for a monstrosity of iron scaffolding with moving parts.

The enormous “Chicago Wheel,” or Ferris Wheel, was the hit of the fair.

And it was HUGE!  Each of its 36 cars (the size of railroad boxcars) held 60 people, meaning that the wheel could hold 2,160 people at one time.  Compare that capacity with two of the world’s newest Ferris wheels, the London Eye (800 people) or the Singapore Flyer (784 people).

As the photograph below shows, the Ferris Wheel dominated its location on the Midway Plaisance, a mile-long stretch of green Chicago park jutting inland from Jackson Park (and from which came the term “midway,” referring to the section of a fairground devoted to rides and games).

Here’s a view from inside one of the cars.

Cool, right?  According to Wikipedia, 38,000 people a day rode the Ferris Wheel during the fair’s run.

But back to the book.  The Devil in the White City tells the stories of two very different, yet similar, blue-eyed men.

The first, Daniel Burnham, is Director of Works for the fair.  Without his ambition and drive the fairground’s development probably would not have happened.  He not only pulled together America’s top building and landscape architects (a task similar to “herding cats”) but also managed to build a fantasy city of enchantment on an impossibly tight deadline.  He really did build a city, too.  The White City had its own police force and fire protection, etc.

The second man, H.H. Holmes, is a serial killer who operated in the shadow of the fair, murdering possibly as many as 200 people at his gloomy “Castle” at Sixty-third and Wallace, about two miles due west of the fairgrounds.  As repulsed as you may be by his crimes, you can’t help but be at the same time fascinated by his smoothly confident, entrepreneurial brand of evil.  Leonardo DiCaprio purchased the film rights to The Devil in the White City in 2010.  I wish he’d play the good guy, Daniel Burnham, but I’m sure he’s going to make a fabulous villain of Holmes.

The Devil in the White City also tells the stories of two very different, yet similar, cities: Chicago (crowded, dirty, and hazy with coal smoke) and the White City (spacious, sunny, beautiful, and cooled by clear breezes from Lake Michigan).  Interestingly, these cities become characters as distinct as Burnham and Holmes.

Here are links, etc., to a few of the more interesting sources I found in preparing for the book discussion. If you are curious to learn more about the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, I think you’ll enjoy them!

(UPDATE: Because someone visited this post today, Friday, December 17, 2021, and I haven’t thought about it in a long time, I popped in to revisit it myself–and found that several photos I’d linked to in the original post are no longer live. I’ll try to find them again in the next few days, or at least substitute photos that equally illustrate the points I was making in each case. Just FYI, in case you are here reading this post again today or tomorrow❤️)

Posted in Books and reading, History, WPLongform (posts of 1000 words or longer) | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 13 Comments